Pilot holes take a little longer, but tend to give more reliable, superior results. Yes, you can skip the pilot hole in softwood, but you'll find a lot of splintering, depending on what and how you do things. In some case, leaving the last 1/2" or so undrilled in softwood works well and gives a fit more resistant to loosening. I generally bore full depth for the pilot hole. If no difference is noted, they often are for softwood and you may need something slightly bigger in hardwood. A chart that has different listings for hard and soft wood is often helpful. Too small and it is a PITA to get in.įor standard wood screws, the charts usually work, but sometimes need a little adjusted for all the reasons I mentioned and some I may have forgot. A little bigger hole is OK most of the time, but could make it easier to strip out. With drywall screws, I usually use a bit that is as close in diameter to the body of the screwthreads as is possible. In some cases, you don't want a supertight fit in others you do. But you can also get screw with different threads, fine or coarse, in basically the same screw size. The hard vs soft wood thing has been mentioned already. This is a different screw than a wood screw, but we won't pursue technical differences, just note that this can sometimes require a different pilot hole size. Most of the time we use a drywall screw of some sort on benchwork these days. Jj and Roger offer up suggestions to consider. generally, they're made for drilling holes in wood for wood screws and work well for that.
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